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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.